I had fished Lochan nan Cnaimh 30 years ago give or take a year or two. Back then the climb up and down was a mere day trip. This time out I had planned on utilising the ex military bivvy bag I had acquired with remote hill lochs in mind. My logic was that the trek into the hills would be more efficient in terms of walking versus fishing time if I bedded down in the hills. A night under the stars would give two fishing days for the physical efforts involved- simple – eh no actually as it happens (more on this later!)
Loch nan Cnaimh had kept me wondering all these years. Let me explain. The arrogance of youth on my first visit led me to convince myself that the Loch did not in fact hold trout. This rash deduction was built on the fact that I (a self proclaimed expert on catching trout in hill lochs) had spent an hour or so working my magic without even seeing a fish. This first trip had been a spring one and when I eventually added to my ‘expertise’ the fact that hill lochs at higher altitudes ( Lochan nan Cnaimh lies at 400 metres) often came on later than lower lying lochs, a niggling doubt began to gradually emerge.
Lochan of the Bones , the English translation from Gaelic, suggested death , a graveyard of previous life and this played into my initial conclusion about the water. The Gael’s tendency to use descriptive names for places, mountain features , events and peaks had me researching for clues. Nothing was forthcoming from my sources at least. As I remembered back it was a deep dark Loch of reasonable size as hill lochs go. It had several small feeder burns coming off the surrounding mountains, although this is not essential for wild brown trout to thrive. It was dour and a little foreboding , without rises as I recalled but again this is in common with many other hill lochs I had caught in. The mystery of the Loch had played on my mind for years. It was time to try again to solve the puzzles of Lochan nan Cnaimh!
These days due to the demands of family life I require to grab fishing opportunities when and where I can. This trip though planned in my head for months was a little haphazard in the final organisation. When the stars aligned to make the trip a possibility I had to go for it. Not quite jumping out of an airplane when the green light suddenly flashes but you get the idea. The fishing tackle that was making the trip was not an issue having been considered and decided weeks ago however the catering arrangements were poor (desperate even). Two supermarket packed lunches, two drinks in refillable plastic bottles, a packet of chocolate bars, porridge oats, sugar, powdered milk and teabags. My camping kettle would allow me to brew up hot tea as required, provided I could find some dry wood. Waterproofs, bivvy bag , sleeping bag, extra socks and a jumper and I was good to go. The Lochan was close(ish) to another more accessible one I had previously fished and the plan was to walk in( well up ) easterly to Lochan nan Cnaimh , a mere canter of approximately 2.5 miles , fish it that evening , rest up , fish an early morning session, make my way on a ‘well defined’ track to the second Lochan , give it a go then walk out on a forestry road to a meeting place about four miles to the north where I would be picked up by my wife and son in the early evening. Simple, clear and responsible was how I would describe the plan. I even left a screenshot of the area in the rare chance of encountering any difficulties. The weaknesses in the plan were my current fitness levels, being a little more rotund these days, the current nature of the terrain and the maintenance of paths and of course weather conditions. The latter seemed passable for my intentions- warm and settled the first day then becoming less settled by morning and showery the next day. A reasonable breeze throughout would sort out the midgies.
My good wife dropped me off around midday at the side of Loch Eck in the neighbouring Glen , some 400 meters below my main target. The first mile would involve a steep , lung bursting climb up very rough ground . Thereafter it was a long , energy sapping boggy moorland slog to around 600 meters altitude before a steep descent to the Lochan. My rucksack weighed around 20 kilos and in the afternoon heat I discovered how much my fitness had declined. I had expected the first section to be hell and it was! I took it very slowly and carefully and at times the gradient was ridiculous but eventually I won out onto the open hillside and picked up the remnants of rotten wooden posts that had been way makers on a longer route. The ground was awful – boggy with tussocks and holes and the watershed on the horizon seemed forever far away. My legs felt like jelly as I willed myself on. It had taken me over 2 hours to gain the watershed but eventually the ground fell away in front of me and a craggy vista unfolded and there was Lochan nan Cnaimh 200 meters below. A steep slippy decline later I reached it’s northwest edge and slowly took in my surroundings. The afternoon sunshine made the Lochan more inviting than I recalled and I immediately began assessing the banks for likely spots for trout to lie. I observed that it seemed almost uniformly deep from the edges outward. There was little weed growth visible. Indeed the only features to be observed looking down into the water were large craggy rocks. It was at this point I may have solved the mystery of this remote Lochan’s name. Through the murky water within the dark outline of rocks I noticed streaks of white marble layered in the stone. As I looked wider I noticed more and more of these submerged shinning seams and suddenly felt these were perhaps the bones of the place name. One mystery solved (possibly) and I was keen to tackle the next one – did this hill Lochan hold trout? After a quick brew up of tea and a sandwich (whose prepackaging helped me get a small camp fire lit !) my tiredness from the walk in began to ease. Setting up the fly rod I searched the surface for activity and observed absolutely nothing! I am very much a vintage tackle enthusiast these days although I allowed myself the concession of a carbon four piece 9 footer. Despite the lack of activity I plumped for a floating line (size 5 Peter Anderson Classic) that lives on a more than perfectly adequate Leeda rimfly light weight. I started with a cast of three classic wets – a pennel on point with a blue Zulu and black spider on the bobs. I kept back from the water’s edge as it seemed likely to me that fish may lie there and cast carefully. The flies hit the water and after two steady retrieves, a sharp subsurface take and a lively half pounder had taken the pennel! Pound for pound wild brown trout must be one of the hardest fighting fish.
A native Brownie.
This one knew how to utilise it’s surroundings diving again and again for the rocky depths and under the bank itself. Soon after I lifted this beautiful, wild fish onto the soft grassy edge. I carefully unhooked the fish and gently slipped it back into the Lochan. These wild trout rarely require recovery time before darting back into the depths and this one was no exception! While I had solved the second mystery of Lochan nan Cnaimh I was to find out that it’s trout are far from predictable. Hopeful of a good evening’s fishing I continued down the bank with high expectations of more action. Alas the next half hour produced only one minuscule trout and one missed pull. As the evening went on I did get another two reasonably sized fish on a blue Zulu and a Kate McLaren but Lochan nan Cnaimh does not give up it’s trout easily. It’s canny trout are easily spooked. One final observation from the evening was that despite a plentiful supply of fly life and moths in particular not one rise did I see. Having fished into the dark I had not prepared my ‘bed’ and I struggled and stumbled around finding a spot that would retain some wind (to keep the midgies at bay)and that was not a bog!
I awoke to light rain and low cloud. I never slept that well but have had worse nights. I was dry and warm although I could feel a stiffness in my legs from yesterday’s physical effort. It took me a bit of time to get up and moving but once I did I had to keep going . The rain worsened and having put away my bivvy I moved up to a large rock that provided shelter from the elements. Here I made a breakfast of porridge oats , milk powder, sugar and water mixed together. There was little chance of making a fire given the rain and besides I was keen to fish again. Given the conditions I decided to set up a vintage spinning outfit. This consisted of a refurbished 7ft Milbro 4 piece rod called ‘the tourist’ and I had been keen to have a go with it. I teamed it with a Mitchell 314 loaded with 4lb line and an 8 gr. copper Abu Droppen. Despite the strengthening wind ‘ the tourist’ flicked the lure a decent 30 feet plus and was a joy to use. I gave it an hour and had two lovely half pounders , carefully returned, and one better sized fish that threw the hook after a decent tussle. The outfit was great to use and will be still functional for years to come with some basic care and attention.
The Milbro Tourist & Mitchell 314
The weather improved with the rain easing and the cloud lifting a little at least. I put the spinning outfit away and returned to the fly rod. This time using a very well preserved Hardy Gem reel and a size 6 intermediate line. I started off with a team of two wets – a larger blue Zulu (an 8) and a Kate McLaren tied on a size 10 hook. I left my rucksack at the north end of the Loch , filled my pockets with essentials ( fly boxes, leader line, forceps ) and headed off to explore the western shore line.
The bank was high and rocky interspersed with lower, grassy sections that were more sensible to fish at least. Initially the higher banks were more productive. I saw a fish only feet from a rocky outcrop. I think I spooked it rather than it rising. I crouched lower and flicked the flies over it and held my breath. The lively rattle followed almost immediately before the fish let loose my Kate McLaren! Encouraged by the early activity I continued- nothing happened. Like the previous evening it seems that after a disturbance of the water from a fish it goes very quiet as all the trout in the immediate environment seek cover. This in turn means the game is up for the angler , temporarily at least. I fished on moving steadily away from where I had hit the fish. Nothing. Then I saw the swirl of a fish following the Kate McLaren without contacting. I changed the Zulu for another variation of a Kate McLaren with a flashy green tag. The Lochan trout seemed to approve and over the next hour I had three more beautiful fish , two around the half pound average and one much smaller.
A couple of Gems!
The weather remained unsettled with swirling rain clouds coming and going. Checking the time I decided to go on for another 15 mins till midday and fish to a low section of grassy bank. At this point I noticed the battery in my phone was getting very low and put it off to preserve it. When I reached the lower bank I was able to cast further without the high bank and on my third retrieve all hell broke loose as a bigger trout hammered the top fly and proceeded to leap a foot clear of the water. This was repeated 3 or 4 times in succession as this trout angrily resisted. The next phase involved a different tactic as the fish dived for the weeds tangling the trailing fly. When it came to the surface it was an attractively marked brown trout of just under the pound mark. I banked it on the grass, unhooked it and realised I had switched the phone off – so no pic . Again this healthy specimen shot off when released appearing as strong as ever.
Satisfied with my morning I made my way back to pick up the rucksack and head off. I turned for one last look at this wonderful wilderness as the next rain clouds swirled in transforming the Lochan back into the brooding and mysterious place I had long felt it to be.
Brooding & mysterious
Postscript.
Alas the track I had hoped for taking me down then north to the nearby hill Loch never materialised. The track was lost to growing trees and bog. I spent a tough and futile hour looking for a route before taking stock of the terrain, conditions, estimated time (as my phone had died ) and my dwindling energy levels. To press on was to invite trouble that could lead to injury, harm and anxiety for my family. Decision made I required to climb 100 meters back up the valley over more difficult ground that would take me to a forestry road and eventually to a village north east and 20 miles from the agreed pick up. At the village a Good Samaritan let me use her phone and after some explaining my wife and son came out to collect me.
Everyday is a school day as the saying goes. Meticulous planning and up to date information is the key with this type of adventure but overall it was a successful , enjoyable and worthwhile trip!
Tying a few spider patterns for the new season starting on Tuesday. Some more wet spiders in 10’s and 12’s. Thanks to Soft Hackles for patterns and inspiration !
I was on a family short break last week near Dumfries and with the Brown Trout season over was ’forced’ to try a fishery.
Alderneuk Trout Fishery had very complimentary reviews and was nearby to where we were staying. In particular it’s ‘friendly atmosphere and high quality trout ‘ led me to give it a go.
Alderneuk is run by a thoroughly nice couple who from the moment I arrived until the moment I left went out of their way to ensure that I and indeed all visitors enjoyed their experience.
As a newbie to this type of fishing any trepidation I felt quickly left me as I was shown only help , advice and kindness.
The water itself though smallish is beautiful and situated in a real country location.
Having been advised on patterns and method I headed on to the water and relatively quickly connected with a powerful fish. Alas after a few minutes and with my host ready with the net the decent Rainbow slipped from my barbless fly. No worries as an even better fish first followed and then grabbed my point fly soon after. I had woke up to the fact that with barbless hooks it is advisable to keep very careful steady pressure on the fish particularly after a dive or surge. This fish was doing plenty of both but with Willie the fishery manager beside me keeping me right the fish was landed. It was a cracker of over 3lbs and in top condition.
A perfect tail on this lovely Rainbow.
Enjoying the novelty of fishing with others I headed up to the lodge for a bite to eat and a yap with my fellow fishers. A friendly and helpful disposition seems to be the way at Ardneuk and I enjoyed the social aspect of my visit, finding the fishing conversations more interactive than when I’m boring my wife and kids!
I eventually started fishing again and despite seeing a fair bit of activity – rises, follows and lost fish- I never managed to land another. I had though greatly enjoyed my session and left with a much more positive attitude towards this type of sport. I would certainly visit again!
29.9.21 Loch Turret, near Crieff. Fresh/moderate W, NW wind. Bright spells. Heavy showers.
This years autumn break to Crieff was marginally earlier than usual and this meant a late fishing trip was on the itinerary. With my good wife holding the fort I snuck away early, up the winding road to Loch Turret. This was my second trip to this wonderful place, having had a day here in May a few years past. It had been a good day in bright summer conditions and plenty of smallish fish. Today was a different proposition – late season, much colder, magnificent surroundings but with more than a hint of the harshness of the coming wintertime. At around 1200 feet Loch Turret is rugged and exposed against a background dominated by the Munro Ben Chonzie. I had been up there twenty years previously but today am more than satisfied with the view from the Loch shore, fly rod to hand!
The Loch was at a low level reflecting the dry summer and the exposed shore at the dam end resembled a moonscape of uneven rocks over dried out mud. With the wind almost in my face I worked my way down the West shore. Due to space restrictions in our family vehicle I had an 8.5ft modern glass 4 piece rod, a couple of reels and three line options, F,S, & I. Loch Turret is generally fished on the surface as heather flies and similar represent the most plentiful food source for the wild brown trout. Given the conditions however I opted for a sinking line with a large lure fished quickly along the margins in an attempt to provoke some interest from aggressive pre spawning trout. I concentrated on the points and rock outcrops that created potential shelter and an angle to cast in the strong wind.
A calmer bay in a bright interval.
Alas the early part of my day and my initial tactics proved heavy going and unproductive. I tried different patterns – muddlers and traditional’s without result, but captivated by my surroundings. I stopped for refreshments, changed to a Floater and then proceeded to try bibios, crunchers, zulus, Loch Ordie, Goat’s Toe, Clan Chief to no avail. Another change of depth to a size 6 intermediate on a vintage Hardy Gem with a Kate McLaren, Blue/black Loch Ordie and small silver Butcher and finally a show of interest from a fish! No contact but a subsurface swirl at the top dropper Kate McLaren. I doubled down on my concentration and a few steps further down the bank and again movement to the top fly. A moment or two later I was on. A lean dark fish around the half pound netted and dispatched – a promised treat for my beloved dogs.
A lean, dark fish on a Kate McLaren.
I replaced the middle fly with another Kate McLaren, a slight variant with sparkle, and continued quickly as the day was getting on. Clearly I had the trout’s interest now and activity increased to multiple rises, pulls, follows and a couple of dropped fish. The wind had eased a bit and the sun made a few more frequent appearances making my surroundings all the more brilliant.
The low water level revealed settlements before the hydro system.
I managed two further fish on the Kate McLaren, beautifully marked, full bodied and hard fighting both returned carefully.
Full bodied and ready to spawn.
It had been another interesting and memorable day and a fitting end to the Brown Trout season. On the trek back I saw an eagle majestic against the blue sky, a worthy resident of this wild and rugged place.
Approximately 10 Brown Trout. Floating and Intermediate lines on Hardy Viscount 140 and Colonsay Fly 8 ft & 8.5 ft.
Blue Black Loch Ordie, Makrel ? Black Zulu, 10’s. Large Yellow Green fly, size 8. Fished as a streamer. Trout following and aggressive. NW winds light/ moderate
Colonsay Brownie on Colonsay Fly 8’The trout were active towards a large green /yellow lure.Iconic and beautiful Mid Fada.
Day 2
Friday Tumarran Loch.
1 Brown trout 3/4 lbs on Blue/Black Loch Ordie.
8.5ft Colonsay Fly rod, Hardy Gem and Hardy S/L.
Calm, low cloud, midgies! Often overlooked on early trips to the Island, this Loch has come to fascinate me. It’s gin clear water and reluctant Brown Trout make it unique. Perseverance and stealth can produce stunning fish seemingly from nowhere. Two decades ago a regular visiting angler and Baptist Minister had told me this. Nowadays I never walk past Tumarran Loch!
A well conditioned Tumarran fish.Scot’s Pine on Tumarran.
Day 3.
Saturday East Loch Fada.
4 Brown Trout 3 @ 3/4lbs, 1 @ 11/4 lbs. 8.5 ft Colonsay Fly rod. Intermediate line no.6 / floating no.6 , Hardy Viscount 140. Mini muddler Kehe
Fresh NW wind. Loch low with heavy weed growth.
A stunning East Fada Brownie.And another!8.5 ’ Colonsay Fly Rod / Hardy Viscount 140 at East Fada.
My busy family life and role as a carer mean that life tends to be unpredictable and plans are difficult to make with any real probability of seeing them through. This year has been particularly difficult and my boat still lies in the garden as we approach mid August but I have at least tried to grab opportunities when and if they arise.
I found myself with this type of situation recently when I was driving past a river estuary that I knew well from fishing as a boy. I had an hour before I was due home and remembered that I had a trout fly rod and reel in the car from a trip to a Loch the night before and the tide looked right to fish the estuary channel. It seemed to me that circumstances were coming together and I would have a go. I even found a sea trout cast and flies at the back of my cast tin.
I knew the estuary well from my youth.
Decision made I was soon heading over the sand with my 8ft Daiwa trout rod , Daiwa fly reel with a sink tip line with a small silver Stoat’s Tail double attached.
A few casts in I moved a fish but without contact. After a couple of pulls I knew I was among fish and with my focus increased the next cast provided a solid lively take and I was in. From past experience I knew sea trout in the estuary were usually small with the occasional fish in the 1 to 2lb category but this fish ran strongly up stream and down stream taking line with ease. Staying deep I could not see the fish but thought it to be in the 2lb region. When it eventually surfaced it’s broad back revealed a bigger sea trout around the 4lb plus mark! I was reasonably confident that the Double hook was set firmly as the fish continued to surge around the estuary channel. Having only my smallish trout net with me I decided to wade in beyond my boot tops to close the distance for netting. After a couple of careful attempts I slipped the net under the fish and carefully backed up onto the bank. A very quick picture of the fish in the net and in the water on my phone , a clean removal of the wee double and I held this lovely slightly coloured sea trout up right in the water before it kicked away powerfully.
A beautiful estuary sea trout.
Having missed many fishing opportunities this season I was delighted to have grasped this one!
As May unfolds the trout fishing in Argyll comes fully alive. Although temperatures have remained on the low side due to persistent Easterly/ Northeasterly winds , increased insect activity and hungry native trout have started to come together. The last week in May and first in June are not known as ‘duffer’s fortnight’ for nothing and the increased success rate of those who fly fish can often provide a rich period of fishing that sustains through leaner times. This is usually particularly true for me!
I’ve managed a few trips recently with hopefully a few others soon. I had an afternoon on Loch Tarsan last week and in an awkward NW wind managed 5 Brownies, with a blue/ black Loch Ordie particularly effective on the top dropper.
Vintage Shakespeare and Abu setup and a Loch Tarsan Brownie.
I had a couple of stockies and the others were wild fish – thin and beautifully marked – but they were all keen on the top dropper!
Blue/black Loch Ordie used on top dropper.
After the Tarsan outing the rare opportunity for an overnight trip popped up . This basically allows two sessions separated by a sleep under canvas or in the car.
Heaven on earth.
Off to beautiful Loch Ascog it was then with my small tent and the electric outboard and battery. It was a slow slog to the boat house but then everything was just bunged into the boat and I headed for a secluded spot to set up camp. Fishing was slow initially, probably due to the bright , warm late afternoon but as the temperature became cooler and the sun faded the trout began to make an appearance. As usual I had two rods set up one with a sink tip and the other with a sinker (all vintage stuff see pic if you’re interested!) The fish came on in an evening rise and I finished the evening with 7 wild Brownies. A small Daddy and a Kate Mc Laren variant were proving the most interesting to the fish. It was a braw wee session and I returned to camp for some supper before turning in as darkness fell. I had plans for an early start!
A brace of beautiful wild brown trout.
Having pitched the tent on uneven ground I was more than ready for fishing by 5am and it was not long before I was back among the trout! Plenty of action ensued with fish coming to both rods taking a daddy, Katie, blue Zulu and Loch Ordie’s.
Members of the successful team.
By mid morning the sun shine and heat were increasing and having matched my total from last night I was happy to pack up and head home.
Argyll Trout Fisher 